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Knitted Heart Pattern

Knitted heart pattern
Knitted heart pattern

Knitters and crocheters don’t have much free time to look for free crochet patterns so we are always searching the universe of knitting and crochet for free knitting patterns for babies so you dont have to. Free baby knitting patterns, premature baby knitting patterns and soft toys are continually added to Knitchicks for the enjoyment of all.

Keep the kids entertained and make someone smile with this simple knitting pattern to make these adorable knitted hearts.

These knitted hearts can be stuffed with lavender, trimmed with flowers, or just kept simple.

Heart knitting pattern

Small heart: Small amount of 4-ply yarn; 2¾mm (No.12) knitting needles.
Medium heart: Small amount of DK yarn; 3¼mm (No.10) knitting needles.
Medium-to-large heart: 1 x 50g ball of DK yarn; 4mm (No.8) knitting needles.
Large heart: 1 x 100g ball of DK yarn; 5½mm (No.5) knitting needles.

All hearts: Selections of narrow ribbons, rosebud and beads trimmings (optional). Stuffing.

Abbreviations
K, knit; p, purl; st, stitch; tog, together; skpo, slip 1, k1, pass slip st over; up1, pick up loop lying between sts and k into the back of it; ss, stocking stitch (k on right side and p on wrong side).

Small heart knitting pattern
Using 2¾mm needles and 4-ply yarn, cast on 2 sts. Beginning with a k row, ss 2 rows. 1st increase row: K twice in first st, up1, k1 – 4 sts. P 1 row.
2nd increase row: K1, up1, k to last st, up1, k1. Repeat last 2 rows, 8 times more – 22 sts. Ss 3 rows, then work 2nd increase row again – 24 sts. Ss 4 rows. Dividing row: P12, turn and work on these sts only. Next row: K1, k2tog, k9. P 1 row. Next row: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, skpo, k1. Repeat last 2 rows, twice more – 5 sts. Next row: P1, p3tog, p1 – 3 sts. Cast off. With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn at inside edge to remaining 12 sts and p to end. Next row: K9, skpo, k1. P 1 row. Next row: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, skpo, k1. Repeat last 2 rows, twice more – 5 sts. Next row: P1, p3tog, p1 – 3 sts. Cast off. Make one more piece. Join pieces together, leaving an opening. Stuff firmly and close opening. Make a hanging loop at centre of heart. Add trimmings.

Medium heart knitting pattern
Using 3¼mm needles and DK yarn, work as given for small heart.

Medium-to-large heart knitting pattern
Using 4mm needles and two strands of DK yarn together, work as given for small heart.

Large heart
Using 5½mm needles and four strands of DK yarn together, work as given for small heart.
Read more at http://www.goodtoknow.co.uk/family/440218/Heart-knitting-pattern#RplmpD8uhRrf0zU7.99

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How to knit a scarf

Free knitting pattern - stripy scarf
Stripy scarf

Knitters and crocheters don’t have much free time to look for free knitting patterns so we are continually scouring the world of knitting and crochet for free knitting patterns for babies so you dont have to. Free crochet patterns for babies, premature baby knitting patterns and soft toys are continually added to our site for the enjoyment of beginners and experts.

Keep the little ones warm in winter and learn how to knit a scarf with this stripy scarf knitting patterm. This scarf is colourful, fun and simple to make.

Just follow our ‘how to knit a scarf’ guidelines below. Using slipped stitches or Chain selvedge will create a neat and professional-looking
edge to the scarf.

Read more at http://www.goodtoknow.co.uk/family/536140/how-to-knit-a-scarf#qt02OB3kSolUBXdG.99

Scarf measurements:

Size: 180cm (71in) or desired length

Scarf materials you’ll need:
Rowan Pure Wool DK yarn: 100g raspberry (A), 150g hyacinth (B), 50g geranium (C), 100g dahlia (D), 50g damson (E).
1 pair of 4mm (US6:UK8) needles (A),1 pair of 3.25mm (US3: UK10) needles (B).

Tension:

22 stiches x 30 rows measure 4in (10cm) square over stocking-stitch using 4mm needles

Knitting pattern abbreviations:

Alt = alternate
Beg = beginning
CM = centimetres
MM = millimetres
Cont = continue
Dec = decrease
Foll = following
K = knit
K2tog = knit two stitches together: if these are the very last in the row, then work together through back of loops
M1 = make one stitch: pick up horizontal loop between the needles and work into the back of it
P = purl
Rep = repeat
Rem = remaining
St(s)= stitch(es)
Stocking-stitch = knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side

Scarf knitting pattern

Follow the scarf knitting pattern below to make this stripy scarf:

For the stripy scarf:

Using 3.25mm (UK10/US3) needles and yarn A, cast on 50sts. Change to 4mm (UK8/US6) needles and continue as follows:

Row 1 (RS): S1p, p1, [k1,p1] to the end.

Row 2: S1p, p1, [k1,p1] to the end.

These 2 rows form a 1 x 1 rib with a slipped stitch at the beginning of each row. Repeat these 2 rows six times more (14 rows worked in total), ending with a WS row. Join in yarn B using a slipknot. Work in 14-row stripes of rib in the following colour sequence: C, B, A, D, E, D, A, B. Repeat four times. To finish stripe sequence, work 14-row stripes in colour C, B, then A. Cast off in rib. Cut yarn B (or your choice of yarn) into lengths approximately 22cm (9in) long. Affix these as fringe along each end of the scarf using the following instructions:

For the scarf fringe:
Cut a card template a little wider than the fringe length. Wind yarn repeatedly around the card. Cut along one side of the card, making lengths of yarn double the width of the card.
Take several lengths (more make a thicker fringe), fold in half and hold the folded loop in front of fabric edge. Insert a crochet hook through back of fabric close to the edge or through the purpose-made selvedge holes. Catch the folded loop and pull it through to back.
Catch strands in the hook again and pull through the first loop. Repeat along the edge, spacing as required. Trim ends evenly. Fringes can be beaded, knotted, or worked in silky or contrast coloured yarns.
Darn the ends to finish the scarf off:
Darn ends up the side of the scarf to prevent unsightly ridges forming. The stripes will remain cleanly divided, without uneven lines or puckering.

Using slipped stitches or Chain selvedge will create a neat and professional-looking
edge to the scarf.
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Knitted hot water bottle cover

Free knitting pattern - Hot water bottle
Knitted hot water bottle

At KnitChicks we know how hard it is to find decent baby knitting patterns so are always hunting the universe of knitting and crochet for free crochet baby patterns so you dont have to. Free baby knitting patterns, crochet baby hat patterns and soft toys are continually added to Knitchicks for the enjoyment of all.

Keep warm and cosy this winter with this knitted hot water bottle cover. It’s sparkly finish and ribbon trim make it a smart and practical craft project for a cold day.

Knitted hot water bottle cover measurements:

Size: To fit an average hot water bottle, approximately 33x20cm (13x8in)

Materials you’ll need:
Rowan felted tweed aran yarn: 150g dusty (A)
Rowan shimmer yarn: 50g silver (B)
1 pair of 5mm (US8:UK6) needles (A)
1 pair of 5.5mm (US0:UK5) needles (B)
30cm (12in) length silver lamé ribbon 7-10mm (3⁄8-1⁄2in) wide

Tension:

18 stiches x 20 rows measure 4in (10cm) square over pattern using 5.5mm needle

Knitting pattern abbreviations:

Alt = alternate
Beg = beginning
CM = centimetres
MM = millimetres
Cont = continue
Dec = decrease
Foll = following
K = knit
K2tog = knit two stitches together: if these are the very last in the row, then work together through back of loops
M1 = make one stitch: pick up horizontal loop between the needles and work into the back of it
P = purl
Rep = repeat
Rem = remaining
St(s)= stitch(es)
Stocking-stitch = knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side

Special knitting pattern abbreviations:

CR2L Place one stitch on cable needle and leave at front of work, p1, then k1 from cable needle.
CR2R Place one stitch on cable needle and leave at back of work, k1, then p1 from cable needle.
C8F Slip 4 stitches on to cable needle and leave at front of work, k4, then k4 from cable needle.
C8B Slip 4 stitches on to cable needle and leave at back of work, k4, then k4 from cable needle

Hot water bottle knitting pattern

Follow the pattern below to make a knitted hot wat bottle cover.

For the knitted hot water bottle cover main body:

Using 5mm (UK6/US8) needles and one strand each of yarns A and B held together, cast on 34sts.
Row 1 (RS): K2, *p2, k2, rep from * to end.
Row 2: P2, *k2, p2, rep from * to end.
These 2 rows set rib. Rep these 2 rows twice more,
then row 1 again (7 rows worked in total).
Next row (WS): P2tog, k2, p2, k1, M1p, k3 [(p2,
M1) twice, p2, k2] twice, k1, M1p, k1, p2, k2, p2tog.
(38sts)
Change to 5.5mm (UK5/US9) needles and cont in patt as foll:
Row 1 (RS): K1, p2, k2, p1, CR2L, p2, k8, p2, k8, p2, CR2R, p1, k2, p2, k1.
Row 2: P1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, p8, k2, p8, k2, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1.
Row 3: K1, p2, k2, p2, CR2L, p1, k8, p2, k8, p1, CR2R, p2, k2, p2, k1.
Row 4: P1, k2, p2, k3, p1, k1, p8, k2, p8, k1, p1, k3, p2, k2, p1.
Row 5: K1, p2, k2, p3, k1, p1, C8F, p2, C8B, p1, k1, p3, k2, p2, k1.
Row 6: P1, k2, p2, k3, p1, k1, p8, k2, p8, k1, p1, k3, p2, k2, p1.
Row 7: K1, p2, k2, p2, CR2R, p1, k8, p2, k8, p1, CR2L, p2, k2, p2, k1.
Row 8: P1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, p8, k2, p8, k2, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1.
Row 9: K1, p2, k2, p1, CR2R, p2, k8, p2, k8, p2, CR2L, p1, k2, p2, k1.
Row 10: P1, k2, p2, k1, p1, k3, p8, k2, p8, k3, p1, k1, p2, k2, p1.
Row 11: K1, p2, k2, p1, k1, p3, k8, p2, k8, p3, k1, p1, k2, p2, k1.
Row 12: P1, k2, p2, k1, p1, k3, p8, k2, p8, k3, p1, k1, p2, k2, p1 **.
Rows 1-12 set patt. Rep rows 1-12 until work measures 20cm (8in) from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

For the knitted hot water bottle cover shape base:

Row 1: K1, p2tog, patt to last 3sts, p2tog tbl, k1. (36sts)
Row 2: K all k sts and p all p sts as they present themselves.
Row 3: K1, k2tog, patt to last 3sts, s1 k1 psso, k1. (34sts)
Row 4: As row 2; place markers at each end of row.
Row 5: K1, M1p, patt to last 2sts, M1p, k1. (36sts)
Row 6: P1, k1, p2, patt to last 4sts, p2, k1, p1.
Row 7: K1, M1p, patt to last 2sts, M1p, k1. (38sts)
Cont working in patt until work measures 27cm (103⁄4in) from markers.

For the knitted hot water bottle cover shape top:

Row 1: K1, p2tog, patt to last 3sts, p2tog tbl, k1. (36sts)
Row 2: K all k sts and p all p sts as they present themselves.
Row 3: K1, k2tog, patt to last 3sts, s1 k1 psso, k1. (34sts)
Row 4 (WS): Cast off 8sts, [p2, p2tog] twice, k2,
[p2, p2tog] twice, patt to end. (22sts)
Row 5: Cast off 8sts, k to end.
Row 6: P.
Row 7: K1, [yo, s1 k1 psso] six times, k1.
Row 8: P.
Work in st st until top measures 6cm (21⁄2in) from ribbon eyelet row. Cast off.

For the knitted hot water bottle back flap:
Work as given for main body to **.
Rep rows 1-12 until work measures 18cm (7in) from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.
Shape Top
Row 1: K1, p2tog, patt to last 3sts, p2tog tbl, k1.
(36sts)
Row 2: K all k sts and p all p sts as they present
themselves.
Row 3: K1, k2tog, patt to last 3sts, s1 k1 psso, k1.
(34sts)
Row 4 (WS): Cast off 8sts, [p2, p2tog] twice, p2,
k2, [p2, p2tog] twice, patt to end. (22sts)
Row 5: Cast off 8sts, k to end.
Row 6: P.
Row 7: K1, [yo, s1 k1 psso] six times, k1.
Row 8: P.
Work in st st until top measures 6cm (21⁄2in) from ribbon eyelet row. Cast off.

Top tip: The ribbing on the back edge opening helps the flap to lie flat and
prevents the opening from curling or losing its shape over time.

To make up the knitted hot water bottle:

Handwash both pieces, reshape and dry flat. Fold main body at markers, and lay back flap so
that cast-off edges meet, and it lies over main body piece at back. Using mattress stitch join main body row ends in this position, then sew back flap over the top. Darn in ends.
Thread a strand of ribbon through top eyelets and tie in a bow. Metallic ribbon
coordinates nicely with the shimmer of the yarn.

Top tip: Mattress stitch is practically invisible and is the best seam technique for ribbing and stocking stitch. Start by aligning the edges of the pieces to be seamed with both the right sides facing you. Insert the needle from the front through centre of first knit stitch on one piece of knitting and up through centre of stitch two rows above. Repeat on the other piece, working up the seam and pulling edges together.

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Cheeky Monkey

Free knitting pattern - Cheeky Pattern
Cheeky Monkey

At KnitChicks we know how hard it is to find decent baby knitting patterns so are always hunting the world of knitting and crochet for free knitting patterns for babies so you dont have to. Free knitting patterns for baby, crochet baby hat patterns and soft toys are continually added to Knitchicks for the enjoyment of all.

Knit this cheeky monkey eating a banana for your little monkeys – he’s bound to put a grin on their faces.

Monkey knitting pattern

Measurements:

Height: 32cm/12.5in

Materials you’ll need:
DK yarn: 100g brown (A), 50g biscuit (B), 25g yellow (C), 25g cream (D), oddment of black for features. Note: amounts are generous but approximate
A pair of 3.25mm (US3:UK10) needlesAcrylic toy stuffing
Plastic-headed marker pins
Tweezers for stuffing small parts (optional)

Tension:

26 stiches x 34 rows measure 4in (10cm) square over stocking-stitch using 3.25mm needles before stuffing

Knitting pattern abbreviations:
Alt = alternate
Beg = beginning
CM = centimetres
MM = millimetres
Cont = continue
Dec = decrease
Foll = following
K = knit
K2tog = knit two stitches together: if these are the very last in the row, then work together through back of loops
M1 = make one stitch: pick up horizontal loop between the needles and work into the back of it
P = purl
Rep = repeat
Rem = remaining
St(s)= stitch(es)
Stocking-stitch = knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side

Follow the pattern below to make the monkey.

For the body (make 2 pieces):

Beg at lower edge using the thumb method and A, cast on 24 sts.
First and next foll 3 alt rows: P.
Inc row: K5, m1, k14, m1, k5
(26 sts).
Inc row: K6, m1, k14, m1, k6
(28 sts).
Inc row: K7, m1, k14, m1, k7
(30 sts).
Inc row: K8, m1, k14, m1, k8
(32 sts).
Beg with a p row, stocking-st 19 rows.
Dec row: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog tbl.
Next row: P.
Rep last 2 rows 8 times more (14 sts).
Cast off.

For the base:

Using the thumb method and A, cast on
14 sts.
First row: P.
Inc row: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1.
Rep first 2 rows 2 more times (20 sts).
Beg with a p row, stocking-st 5 rows.
Dec row: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog tbl.
P 1 row.
Rep last 2 rows twice more (14 sts).
Cast off.

For the head:

Beg at lower edge using the thumb method and A, cast on 9 sts.
First and next 4 foll alt rows: P.
Inc row: (Inc) to end (18 sts).
Inc row: (K1, inc) to end (27 sts).
Inc row: (K2, inc) to end (36 sts).
Inc row: (K3, inc) to end (45 sts).
Inc row: (K4, inc) to end (54 sts).
Beg with a p row, stocking-st 17 rows.

Shape top of head:

Dec row: (K4, k2tog) to end (45 sts).
Beg with a p row, stocking-st 3 rows.
Dec row: (K3, k2tog) to end (36 sts).
Next and next 2 foll alt rows: P.
Dec row: (K2, k2tog) to end (27 sts).
Dec row: (K1, k2tog) to end (18 sts).
Dec row: (K2tog) to end (9 sts).
Thread yarn through rem sts, pull tight
and secure.

Muzzle:

Using the thumb method and B, cast on
28 sts.
P 1 row.
Inc row: K1, (m1, k2) to last st, m1, k1
(42 sts).
Beg with a p row, stocking-st 3 rows.
Dec row: K2, (k2tog, k2) to end
(32 sts).
Beg with a p row, stocking-st 3 rows.
Dec row: K2, (k2tog) 6 times, k4, (k2tog)
6 times, k2, (20 sts).
P 1 row.
Cast off.

For the eye piece:

Beg at lower edge using the thumb method and B, cast on 12 sts.
P 1 row.
Inc row: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1
(14 sts).
Beg with a p row, stocking-st 3 rows.
Next row: K7.
Turn and work on these 7 sts.
P 1 row.
Dec row: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog tbl (5 sts).
Dec row: P2tog tbl, p1, p2tog (3 sts).
Break yarn and thread through sts, pull tight and secure.
Rejoin yarn to rem sts and k 1 row (7 sts).
Complete to match first side.

For the ears (make 2):

Using the thumb method and B, cast on
12 sts.
Beg with a p row, stocking-st 5 rows.
Dec row: (K2tog) to end (6 sts).
Thread yarn through rem sts, pull tight
and secure.

For the legs and feet (make 2):

For the legs (make 2):

Using the thumb method and A, cast on
20 sts.
Beg with a p row, stocking-st 45 rows.
Cast off.

For the feet (make 2):

Using the thumb method and B, cast on
18 sts.
P 1 row.
Inc row: K2, (m1, k2) to end (26 sts).
Beg with a p row, stocking-st 5 rows.
Inc row: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1
(28 sts).
Beg with a p row, stocking-st 7 rows

Shape big toe:

Cast off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows (20 sts).
Stocking-st 4 rows.
Dec row: (K2tog) to end (10 sts).
P 1 row.
Dec row: (K2tog) to end (5 sts).
Thread yarn through rem sts, pull tight
and secure.

For the hands and arms (make 2):

Beg at shoulder using the thumb method and A, cast on 12 sts.
Beg with a p row, stocking-st 5 rows.
Inc row: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1.
Rep last 6 rows 3 times more (20 sts).
Beg with a p row, stocking-st 9 rows.
Inc row: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1.
Rep last 10 rows once (24 sts).
P 1 row.
Change to B for hand.
Stocking-st 2 rows.
Inc row: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1
(26 sts).
Beg with a p row, stocking-st 5 rows.

Shape thumb:

Cast off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows (18 sts).
Stocking-st 4 rows.
Dec row: (K1, k2tog) to end
(12 sts).
Dec row: (P2tog) to end (6 sts).
Thread yarn through rem sts, pull tight
and secure.

For the tail:

Using B, cast on 8 sts.

Work in stocking-st until tail measures

91⁄2in (24cm).

Thread yarn through sts, pull tight and secure.

For the banana:

Beg at lower edge using the thumb method and C, cast on 6 sts.
First and next 2 foll alt rows: P.
Inc row: (K1, inc) to end (9 sts).
Inc row: (K2, inc) to end (12 sts).
Inc row: (K3, inc) to end (15 sts).
Beg with a p row, stocking-st 7 rows.
Change to D and stocking-st 6 rows.
Dec row: (K3, k2tog) to end (12 sts).
Next and next foll alt row: P.
Dec row: (K2, k2tog) to end (9 sts).
Dec row: (K1, k2tog) to end (6 sts).
Thread yarn through rem sts, pull tight and secure.

For the skins (make 3):

Using the thumb method and C, cast on 8 sts.
Beg with a p row, stocking-st 3 rows.
Dec row: K2, (k2tog) twice, k2 (6 sts).
Next and next foll alt row: P.
Dec row: K1, (k2tog) twice, k1 (4 sts).
Dec row: K2tog, k2tog tbl (2 sts).
Thread yarn through rem sts, pull tight and secure.

For the skin linings (make 3):

Using the thumb method and D, cast on 6 sts.
Beg with a p row, stocking-st 3 rows.
Dec row: K1, (k2tog) twice, k1 (4 sts).
P 1 row.
Dec row: K2tog, k2tog tbl (2 sts).
Thread yarn through rem sts, pull tight and secure.

Making up

Body:

Place the two halves of body together matching all edges and join row-ends. Stuff body leaving neck and lower edge open.

Base:

Pin base to lower edge of body and sew base to body all the way round, adding more stuffing to base if needed.

Head:

Gather round cast-on sts of head, pull tight and secure. Join row-ends leaving a gap, stuff and close gap. Pin head to body,
adding more stuffing to neck if needed, and stitch head in place by taking a small horizontal st from head and then a small horizontal st from body and doing this
alternately all the way round.

Legs and feet:

Join row ends of legs and stuff. Fold feet in half and join row-ends and stuff. Over-sew cast-on sts of feet and sew feet to legs with both big toes pointing inwards. Sew legs
to body.

Hands and arms:

Fold cast-off sts of hands in half and join row-ends of hands and sew round thumb. Stuff hands. Fold cast-on sts of arms in half and over-sew. Join row-ends of arms, starting at shoulder using mattress-stitch, stuffing as you go. With thumbs pointing forwards, sew top of arms to 4th row below neck at either side.

Muzzle:

Join row-ends of muzzle and with this seam at centre of underneath, join cast-off sts. Stuff, then pin and sew muzzle to lower half of head at centre front.

Eye piece:

Sew eye piece to head, sitting it on top of muzzle, using back-stitch around outside edge.

Ears:

Join row-ends of ears and with seam at centre back. Sew ears to head halfway down.

Tail:

Join row-ends of tail on right side using mattress-stitch. Sew tail to body.

Banana:

Gather round cast-on sts of banana and join row-ends, leaving a gap in the middle. Stuff, pushing stuffing into both ends with tweezers or the tip of scissors. Close gap and sew a running st along seam and pull tight and secure to make bend in banana.

Banana skins and skin linings:

With wrong sides together, place a skin and a lining together matching all the edges and slip-stitch row-ends together. Do this for 3 skins. Place skins in a row and join row-ends of cast-on sts to form a ring around the banana. Position skins halfway up banana and sew cast-on sts of skin linings and skins to banana all the way round.

Embroidering the features:

To make eyes, tie a knot in two lengths of black yarn winding the yarn round 6 times to make each knot. Check that the knots are the same size. Tie eyes to head, with 5 clear knitted sts in between and run ends into head.

Embroider nose in black taking a straight st over 2 sts and for mouth, a curved line in back-stitch with a straight st at each end. To begin and fasten off invisibly for the embroidery, tie a knot in end of yarn and take a big st through work, coming up to start embroidery. Allow knot to disappear through knitting and be caught in stuffing. To fasten off, take a few sts back and forth through work, inserting the needle where yarn comes out.

This knitting pattern is extracted from the Knitted Wild Animals book by Sarah Keen, published by GMC Publications.

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How to knit a bag – Free Crochet pattern

Crochet Bag - Free crochet pattern
Crochet Bag

Knitters and crocheters don’t have much free time to look for free crochet patterns so we are always scouring the world of knitting and crochet for free knitting patterns for babies so you dont have to. Free baby crochet patterns , crochet baby hat patterns and soft toys are continually added to Knitchicks for the enjoyment of all.

Measurements
32/121/2in wide and 20cm/8in high

Material

6x 50g spool of Texere Bizare.
Pair of 4 ½ mm (No. 7) knitting needles
I large button

Tension
20 stitches and 29 rows to 10 x 10 cm, over stocking stitch using 4 ½ mm needles. 20 stitches and 40 rows, to 10 x 10 cm, over garter stitch using 4 ½ mm needles.

Abbreviations

K: Knit P: Purl Tog: together Ss: Stocking Stitch Gs: Garter Stitch Inc: Increase (by working same st) Dec: Decrease (by taking 2 sts tog)

Note Yarn amounts are based on average requirements and are therefore approximate.

Centre Panel

With 4 ½ mm needles cast on 42sts for front.
Beginning with a k row, ss 58 rows.
Mark each end of last row.
Ss another 36 rows for base.
Mark each end of last row.
Ss another 58 rows for back.

Strap
With 4 ½ mm needles, cast on 42 sts for front.
Beginning with k row, ss 58 rows.
Mark each end of last row.
Ss another 36 rows for base.
Ss another 58 rows for back.

Strap
With 4 ½ m needles, cast on 26 sts,
Gst 79 for side.
Dec row: K2tog, k22, k2tog – 24 sts
Mark each end of last row.
Get another 200 rows for strap.
Inc row: Inc in first st, k22, inc in last st – 26 sts.
Mark each end of last row.
Gst another 79 rows for side.

Button Loop
With 4 ½ mm needles, cast on 30 sts.
Cast off.
How to make up
Place the short ends of the strap between the markers on each side of the centre panel and the row-ends of the strap along the row-ends of the centre panel to the top edges. Having markers on the strap in line with the top edges, sew the sides in place.
Fold the button loop in half and sew the ends inside of back, just below the cast-on edge.
At the centre of the strap, fold approximately 12cm of the outer edges to inside and then join the row-ends together for handle.

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Knit Raa Raa the Noisy Lion

At KnitChicks we know how hard it is to find decent baby crochet patterns so are always searching the world of knitting and crochet for free knitting patterns for babies so you dont have to. Free baby crochet patterns, premature baby knitting patterns and soft toys are continually added to our site for the enjoyment of beginners and experts.

Knit Raa Raa the Noisy Lion, the much-loved character from the hit TV show and be a roaring hit with the kids.

Free knitting pattern
Raa Raa the lion

Raa Raa the Noisy Lion knitting pattern: This pattern is suitable for experienced knitters.

Measurements: Height 25cm/10in Materials you’ll need: 1 x 50g (165-metre) ball of Sirdar Snuggly DK (55 per cent nylon, 45 per cent acrylic) in each of Brown (416), Rust (423), Yellow (418) and Lemon (252) 1 x 25g (70-metre) ball of Hayfield Bonus Toytime DK (100 per cent acrylic) in Black (965).

Length of DK yarn in White and Red. 2xskeins of embroidery thread in Dark Brown and 1 skein in Rust. Pair of 3mm (No. 11) knitting needles Washable toy stuffing Tweezers.

For yarn stockists, write to Sirdar Spinning Ltd, Flanshaw Lane, Alverthorpe, Wakefield, W Yorks WF2 9ND, call 01924 371 501 or see www.sirdar.co.uk.

Tension: 26 stitches and 36 rows, to 10 x 10cm, over stocking stitch using 3mm needles.

Knitting pattern abbreviations: K, knit; p, purl; st, stitch; sl, slip; tog, together; k2togb or p2togb, k2tog or p2tog through back of sts; inc, increase (work twice into same st); dec, decrease (work 2 sts tog); ss, stocking st (k on right side, p on wrong side).

Note: The figures in square brackets are worked as stated after the 2nd bracket.

Start knitting Raa Raa the Noisy Lion, the much-loved character from the hit TV show with the following knitting pattern.

For the head: For the mane: With 3mm needles and Brown, cast on 16 sts. P 1 row. 1st inc row: Inc kwise in each st to end – 32 sts. P 1 row. 2nd inc row: [Inc in next st, k1] to end. Ss 3 rows. Work 2nd inc row again – 72 sts. Ss 5 rows. 3rd inc row: [Inc in next st, k2] to end – 96 sts. Ss 15 rows. 1st dec row: [K2, k2tog] to end – 72 sts. Ss 5 rows. 2nd dec row: [K1, k2tog] to end. Ss 3 rows.

Work 2nd dec row again – 32 sts. P 1 row. 3rd dec row: [K2tog] to end – 16 sts. Break off yarn, leaving a long end. Thread end through remaining sts, draw up tightly and secure. Gather cast-on edge on mane for centre front, draw up tightly and secure, then join row-ends together, leaving an opening. Stuff firmly and close opening

For the face: With 3mm needles and Yellow, cast on 10 sts. P 1 row. 1st inc row: Inc kwise in each st – 20 sts. P 1 row. 2nd inc row: Inc in first st, k to last 2 sts, inc in next st, k1. Repeat last 2 rows, twice more – 26 sts. Ss another 7 rows. 1st dec row: K2togb, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. P 1 row. Repeat last 2 rows, twice more – 20 sts. 2nd dec row: [K1, k2tog] to last 2 sts, k2 – 14 sts. Ss 3 rows. 3rd dec row: [K3, k2tog] twice, k4 – 12 sts. P 1 row 4th dec row: [K2, k2tog] to end – 9 sts. Ss 3 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next row – 7 sts. Cast off.

Pin face to front of mane, adding stuffing to give it shape. For the centre stripe: With 3mm needles and Rust, cast on 4 sts. 1st row: Sl1, k to end. 2nd row: P. Repeat last 2 rows, 3 times more. Inc row: Sl1, inc in next st, k2 – 5 sts. P 1 row. Repeat 1st and 2nd rows, 30 times. 1st dec row: Sl1, k1, k2tog, k1 – 4 sts. P 1 row. 2nd dec row: Sl1, k2tog, k1 – 3 sts.

Break off yarn, thread end through remaining sts, draw up tightly and secure. Pin stripe over centre of mane with cast-on edge tucked under top of face and end 3cm away from bottom edge of face.

For the left top stripe: With 3mm needles and Rust, cast on 3 sts. 1st row: Sl1, k to end. 2nd row: P. Repeat last 2 rows, once more. 1st inc row: Sl1, inc in next st, k1 – 4 sts. P 1 row. Repeat 1st and 2nd rows, once. 2nd inc row: Sl1, inc in next st, k2 – 5 sts. P 1 row. Repeat 1st and 2nd rows, 7 times. 1st dec row: Sl1, k1, k2tog, k1 – 4 sts. P 1 row. Repeat 1st and 2nd rows, 3 times. 2nd dec row: Sl1, k2tog, k1 – 3 sts. P 1 row. 3rd dec row: Sl1, k2tog – 2 sts. Break off yarn, thread end through remaining sts, draw up tightly and secure. Pin stripe on mane, placing it to the left of centre stripe with cast-on edge under top of face, ending about 2cm away from centre of back mane.

For the left middle stripe: With 3mm needles and Rust, cast on 3 sts. 1st row: Sl1, k to end. 2nd row: P. Repeat last 2 rows, 3 times more. 1st inc row: Sl1, inc in next st, k1 – 4 sts. P 1 row. Repeat 1st and 2nd rows, 15 times. 1st dec row: Sl1, k2tog, k1 – 3 sts. P 1 row. Repeat 1st and 2nd rows, twice. 2nd dec row: Sl1, k2tog – 2 sts. Break off yarn, thread end through remaining sts, draw up tightly and secure.

Pin stripe in position, placing cast-on edge under side of face, curving end about 2cm away from centre. For the left bottom stripe: With 3mm needles and Rust, cast on 4 sts. 1st row: Sl1, k to end. 2nd row: P. Repeat last 2 rows, twice more. 1st inc row: Sl1, inc in next st, k2 – 5 sts. P 1 row. Repeat 1st and 2nd rows, 6 times. 1st dec row: Sl1, k1, k2tog, k1 – 4 sts. P 1 row. Repeat 1st and 2nd rows, 13 times. Cast off.

Pin stripe in position, placing cast-on edge under the side of face, loop round side of mane meeting end of left middle stripe, bringing end back to tuck under bottom edge of face. For the right top stripe: With 3mm needles and Rust, cast on 3 sts. 1st row: Sl1, k to end. 2nd row: P. Repeat last 2 rows, 4 times more. 1st inc row: Sl1, inc next st, k1 – 4 sts. P 1 row. 2nd inc row: Sl1, inc kwise in next st, k2 – 5 sts. P 1 row. Repeat 1st and 2nd rows, 10 times. 1st dec row: Sl1, k1, k2tog, k1 – 4 sts. P 1 row. 2nd dec row: Sl1, k2tog, k1 – 3 sts. P 1 row. Repeat 1st and 2nd rows, 3 times. 3rd dec row: Sl1, k2tog – 2 sts.

Break off yarn, thread end through remaining sts, draw up tightly and secure. Pin stripe to the right of centre stripe, with cast-on edge under side of face and end meeting centre stripe just below centre of back mane.

For the right bottom stripe: With 3mm needles and Rust, cast on 5 sts. 1st row: Sl1, k to end. 2nd row: P. Repeat last 2 rows, 28 times more. Cast off.

Pin stripe in position, placing cast-on edge under side of face, loop round side of mane, bringing end back to tuck under bottom edge of face. Sew face in place, adding more stuffing. Stitch round each stripe to secure in position. Outline each stripe with Dark Brown embroidery thread.

Embroider details in Brown section of mane in Dark Brown embroidery thread and in Rust section in Rust embroidery thread. For the eyes (make 2): With 3mm needles and Black, cast on 2 sts. Inc row: Inc kwise in first st, k1 – 3 sts. Break off yarn, thread end through remaining sts, draw up tightly and secure.

Position eyes on face and sew in place. With Brown, embroider 2 chain stitches above eyes for eyebrows. For the nose: With 3mm needles and Black, cast on 2 sts. 1st inc row: Inc kwise in each st – 4 sts. P 1 row. 2nd inc row: Inc in first st, k to last st, inc in last st. P 1 row. Repeat last 2 rows, twice more – 10 sts. Dec row: K2togb, k6, k2tog – 8 sts. Cast off pwise. Pin nose in position just below eyes, adding stuffing and sew in place.

For the mouth: With 3mm needles and Black, cast on 2 sts. 1st inc row: Inc k wise in first st, k1 – 3 sts. P 1 row. Next row: Sl1, k to end. Repeat last 2 rows, 5 times. P 1 row. Dec row: Sl1, k2tog, pass sl st over. Fasten off. Pin mouth to face just below nose slightly to right side. With White, embroider 4 small chain sts with small chain stitch in centre of each at top of mouth for teeth.

Outline mouth with small straight stitches in Yellow. With Red, work a couple straight stitches for tongue. For the ears (make 2): With 3mm needles and Yellow, cast on 10 sts. 1st row: K2togb, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. 2nd row: P2tog, p to last 2 sts, p2togb. epeat last 2 rows, once more – 2 sts. Inc row: K twice in each st – 4 sts. P 1 row. Cast off. Fold ears in half widthwise and join row-ends together. Sew ears in place. For the body: With 3mm needles and Yellow, cast on 10 sts. P 1 row. 1st inc row: Inc kwise in each st – 20 sts. P 1 row. 2nd inc row: [Inc in next st, k1] to end – 30 sts. P 1 row. 3rd inc row: [Inc in next st, k2] to end – 40 sts. Ss 3 rows. 4th inc row: [Inc in next st, k3] to end – 50 sts. Ss 15 rows. 1st dec row: [K3, k2tog] to end – 40 sts. Ss 3 rows. 2nd dec row: [K2, k2tog] to end – 30 sts. P 1 row. 3rd dec row: [K1, k2tog] to end – 20 sts. Cast off.

Gather cast-on edge, pull up tightly and secure, then join row-ends together, leaving cast-off edge open. Stuff firmly. Sew head to top of body. For the tummy patch: With 3mm needles and Lemon, cast on 8 sts. P 1 row. Inc row: [Inc kwise in next st] to end – 16 sts. Ss 21 rows. Dec row: [K2tog] to end – 8 sts. P 1 row. Cast off. Place tummy patch at front of body with cast-off edge at top and sew in position.

For the arms: For the right arm: * With 3mm needles and Yellow, cast on 2 sts for finger. Inc row: Inc kwise in first st, k1 – 3 sts. Beginning with a p row, ss 3 rows. Break off yarn and leave these sts.* Work from * to *, 4 times more. With 3mm needles and Yellow, cast on 2 sts. Inc row: Inc kwise in first st, k1 – 3 sts. Beginning with p row, ss 3 rows. Joining row: [K2, then k last st tog with first st of next finger, k1, then k last st tog with first st of next finger, k2] twice – 14 sts. Ss 3 rows. For the shape for thumb: Cast on 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows – 20 sts. Cast off 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows – 14 sts. Dec row: [K1, k2tog] 4 times, k2 – 10 sts. ** Ss 14 rows. Shape top: Cast off 3 sts at beginning of next row. 1st dec row: K2togb, k3, k2tog – 5 sts. P 1 row. Dec row: K2togb, k1, k2tog – 3 sts. Break off yarn, thread end through remaining sts, pull up tightly and secure.

For the left arm: Work as right arm to **. Ss 13 rows. Shape top: Cast off 3 sts at beginning of next row. P 1 row. 1st dec row: K2togb, k3, k2tog – 5 sts. P 1 row. Dec row: K2togb, k1, k2tog – 3 sts. Break off yarn, thread end through remaining sts, pull up tightly and secure.

For the palm pads (make 2): With 3mm needles and Lemon, cast on 2 sts. Inc row: Inc kwise in each st – 4 sts. Beginning with p row, ss 3 rows. Dec row: K2togb, k2tog – 2 sts. Break off yarn, thread end through remaining sts, pull up tightly and secure. Fold each arm in half lengthwise, matching fingers and thumb and join seam all round and along straight edge to beginning of top shaping. Using tweezers, stuff fingers, thumb and arm firmly. Sew pads at centre of palms. Position arms to sides of body with arm seam at front.

For the feet and legs (make 2): For the foot: With 3mm needles and Yellow, cast on 3 sts for toe. Inc row: Inc kwise in first st, k2 – 4 sts. Beginning with a p row, ss 2 rows. Break off yarn and leave these sts.* Work from * to *, 4 times more. With 3mm needles and Yellow, cast on 3 sts. Inc row: Inc kwise in first st, k2 – 4 sts. Beginning with p row, ss 2 rows. Joining row: [P3, then p last st tog with first st of next toe, p2, then p last st tog with first st of next toe, p3] twice – 20 sts. Ss 4 rows. 1st dec row: [K3, k2tog] 4 times – 16 sts. Ss 3 rows. 2nd dec row: [K2, k2tog] 4 times – 12 sts. P 1 row. 3rd dec row: [K1, k2tog] 4 times – 8 sts. Cast off pwise. For the leg: With 3mm needles and Yellow, cast on 12 sts. Inc row: [Inc kwise in next st, k1] 6 times – 18 sts. K 1 row for fold line. 1st dec row: [K4, k2tog] 3 times – 15 sts. Ss 13 rows. Shape top: Cast off 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows – 9 sts. 2nd dec row: K2togb, k5, k2tog – 7 sts. P 1 row. 3rd dec row: K2togb, k3, k2tog – 5 sts. Cast off.

Fold each foot in half lengthwise, matching toes and join seam all round, leaving back edge open. Using tweezers, stuff toes and feet firmly and close opening. Fold each leg in half lengthwise and join row-ends edge together. Stuff legs firmly. Pin lower edge of legs on top at back end of feet, with seam at side, working along fold line at lower edge and sew legs to feet securely.

Position legs at side of body with leg seams towards the centre and sew in place.

For the tail: With 3mm needles and Yellow, cast on 10 sts. Ss 20 rows. Cast off. With 3mm needles and Brown, cast on 5 sts for tail end. P 1 row. Inc row: Inc kwise in each st. Repeat last 2 rows, once more – 20 sts. Ss 5 rows. Dec row: [K2tog] to end. P 1 row. Work dec row again – 5 sts. Break off yarn, thread end through remaining sts, pull up tightly and secure. Join row-ends on tail together with mattress stitch, pulling thread to curve tail and secure in position. Stuff tail. Join row-ends together ontail end. Stuff firmly, then gather cast-on edge, pull up tightly and secure.

With Rust, embroider 4 lines of chain stitches evenly spaced, making two of these lines 2 stitches wide and other two 3 stitches wide. With Dark Brown embroidery thread outline the Rust strips with straight stitches and work single straight stitches along centre of Brown sections. With Rust embroidery thread, work single straight stitches along centre of two widest Rust strips. Sew cast-off edge of end to tail. Sew tail in place.

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How to knit a baby kimono set

At KnitChicks we know how hard it is to find decent baby knitting patterns so are continually scouring the universe of knitting and crochet for free crochet baby patterns so you dont have to. Free knitting patterns for baby, Easy baby knitting patterns and soft toys are continually added to our site for the enjoyment of all.

Kimono and shoes
Knitted baby clothes set – Kimono and shoes

Yarn amounts are based on average requirements and are therefore approximate. Instructions are given for small size. Where they vary, work figures in round brackets for larger sizes. Instructions in square brackets are worked as stated after 2nd bracket.

This cross-over, kimono-style cardigan has raglan sleeves. It’s knitted in stocking stitch with moss-stitch borders, finished off with crochet edging. The yarn is a mixture of wool, silk and cashmere.

Knitting pattern skill level: Medium. Would suit a fairly experienced knitter.

Measurements
Kimono: To fit ages 3 to 6 (6-9)(9-12) months.
Actual chest measurements 53 (56) (59) cm/21 (22) (23¼) in.
Side seam 15 (16) (17) cm/ 6 (6¼) (6½) in.
Length to back neck 25.5 (27) (29) cm/10 (10½) (11½) in.
Sleeve seam 15 (17) (19.5) cm/ 6 (6½) (7¾) in.

Shoes: To fit ages 3-6 (6-9) months.

Materials
Kimono: 3 (3) (4) 50g balls of 4 ply. 3mm (No. 11) and 3¼mm (No. 10) knitting needles; size 2.00 crochet hook; 3 buttons and a length of narrow ribbon.

Shoes: 1 x 50g ball of 4 ply. 2¾mm (No. 12) and 3¼mm (No. 10) knitting needles; size 2.00 crochet hook; 4 buttons.

Tension
28 stitches and 36 rows, to 10 x 10cm, over stocking stitch, using 3¼mm needles.

Abbreviations
K, knit; p, purl; st, stitch; tog, together; p2togb, p2tog through back of sts; inc, increase (by working twice in same st); dec, decrease (by taking 2 sts tog); ss, stocking st (k on right side and p on wrong side); mst, moss st; skpo, slip 1, k1, pass slip st over; nil, meaning nothing is worked here for this size; dc, double crochet.

How to knit the kimono

kimono top
kimono baby set

For the back
With 3mm needles, cast on 75 (79) (83) sts. Mst row: K1, [p1, k1] to end. Mst another 29 rows.

Change to 3¼mm needles.
Beginning with a k row, ss 32 (36) (40) rows. Shape raglan armholes: Cast off 4 (4) (3) sts at beginning of next 2 rows.

Next row: K2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, skpo, k2. P 1 row.
Repeat last 2 rows, 17 (18) (20) times more – 31 (33) (35) sts.
Cast off.

Left front
With 3mm needles, cast on 63 (65) (69) sts. Mst 30 rows as given on back.

Change to 3¼mm needles.
Beginning with a k row, ss 30 (34) (38) rows.

Shape neck: Next row: K to last 4 sts, skpo, k2. Next row: P2, p2togb, p to end – 61 (63) (67) sts.

Shape raglan armhole:
1st row: Cast off 4 (4) (3), k to last 4 sts skpo, k2.
2nd row: P2, p2togb, p to end.
3rd row: K2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, skpo, k2.
Repeat last 2 rows, 15 (16) (17) times more, then 2nd row again – 7 (6) (8) sts.
Next row: K2, k2tog, skpo, k1 (nil) (2). Next row: P2, p2togb, p1 (nil) (2) – 4 (3) (5) sts.
1st size: Next row: K2tog, skpo.
3rd size: Next row: K1, k2tog, skpo – 3 sts. P 1 row. 2nd and 3rd sizes: Next row: K1, k2tog.
All sizes: P2tog and fasten off.

Right front
With 3mm needles, cast on 63 (65) (69) sts.

Mst 30 rows as given on back. Change to 3¼mm needles. Beginning with a k row, ss 30 (34) (38) rows.

Shape neck: Next row: K2, k2tog, k to end. Next row: P to last 4 sts, p2tog, p2. Next row: K2, k2tog, k to end – 60 (62) (66) sts.

Shape raglan armhole: 1st row: Cast off 4 (4) (3), p to last 4 sts p2tog, p2.
2nd row: K2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, skpo, k2.
3rd row: P to last 4 sts, p2tog, p2. Repeat last 2 rows, 15 (16) (17) times more – 7 (6) (8) sts.
Next row: K1 (nil) (2), k2tog, skpo, k2. Next row: P1 (nil) (2), p2tog, p2 – 4 (3) (5) sts.
1st size: Next row: K2tog, skpo.
3rd size: Next row: K2tog, skpo, k1 – 3 sts. P 1 row. 2nd and 3rd sizes: Next row: K2tog, k1. All sizes: P2tog and fasten off.

Sleeves (both alike)
With 3mm needles, cast on 35 (39) (43) sts. Mst 20 rows as given on back, increasing 4 sts evenly across last row – 39 (43) (47) sts.

Change to 3¼mm needles. Beginning with a k row, ss 4 rows. Inc 1 st at each end of next row and 6 (6) (7) following 4th (6th) (6th) rows – 53 (57) (63) sts. Ss another 11 (7) (9) rows.

Shape raglan top: Cast off 4 (4) (3) sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 3rd size only: Next row: K2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, skpo, k2.
Next row: P2, p2togb, p to last 4 sts, p2tog, p2. Repeat last 2 rows, once more – 49 sts.
All sizes: Next row: K2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, skpo, k2. P 1 row. Repeat last 2 rows, 17 (18) (18) times more – 9 (11) (11) sts. Cast off.

Front edging
Join all raglan seams. With right side facing and using 2.00 hook, rejoin yarn at cast-on edge of right front, work 1 row of dc up right front to shoulder, across right sleeve top, back neck and left sleeve top, then down left front to cast-on edge. Do not turn. Work 1 row of backwards dc (dc worked from left to right). Fasten off.

To make up
Press as given on ball band. Join side and sleeve seams. With crochet hook, make 3 button loops along straight edge of left front: first one above mst welt, last one just below neck shaping and remaining one evenly spaced between. Sew on buttons. Make one loop on right front just below neck shaping. Sew centre of ribbon to left side seam to correspond with loop on right front.

How to knit the matching shoes.

kimono baby set - shoes
kimono baby set – shoes

Soles (make 2)
Using 2 strands of yarn tog and 3¼mm needles, cast on 5 sts for back edge.

Mst row: K1, [p1, k1] to end. Working extra sts into mst as they occur, inc 1 st at each of next row and following alternate row – 9 sts. Mst 3 rows. Inc 1 st at each end of next row and following 11th row – 13 sts. Mst 15 (23) rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next row. Mst 1 row. Dec 1 st at each end of next 3 rows – 5 sts. Cast off.

Uppers (make 2)
Using a single strand of yarn and 2¾mm needles, cast on 64 (71) sts.

Beginning with a k row, ss 8 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next 2 rows and 2 following alternate rows, then on following row – 54 (61) sts. Work 1 row. Mark 6th (7th) st from each end on last row. Cast off.

Top edging: With right side facing, a single strand of yarn and 2.00 hook, rejoin yarn to cast-on edge of upper and work 1 row of dc along cast-on edge. Do not turn. Work 1 row of backwards dc (dc worked from left to right). Fasten off.

To make up
Press as given on ball band. Overlap ends of uppers, having shaped ends together and 8 straight row-ends either side across to markers and oversew these edges together. Sew soles to uppers. With crochet hook, make 2 button loops along top layer of each shoe. Sew on buttons.

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Advanced knitting techniques for beginners

Different knitting stitch techniques

There are many stitch techniques to help you create unique handmade clothes. The 2 main ones knit and purl and will form the foundation of what you will do, especially if you follow other peoples patterns.  There are however several others for you to try and enjoy.

How to knit stitch

Hold your needle with cast-on stitches in your left hand beginning about 8cm away from the stitches.  Take the yarn around the little finger of your right hand, under the next two fingers and over top of your index finger.  With the yarn at the back, insert the point of the right hand needle in front of the first stitch from left to right in left hand needle.  With your right index finger bring the yarn under and over the top of point of the right hand needle.  Draw a loop through the stitch then drop the original stitch off the left hand needle.  Continue working in this way until all the stitches are on your right hand needle.

How to purl stitch

Hold the needle with cast on stitches in your left hand beginning about 8cm away from cast on stitches.  Take the yarn around the little finger of your right hand, under the next two fingers and over top of your index finger.  With the yarn at the front insert the point of the right hand needle in front of the first stitch.  With your right index finger bring the yarn over and under the top of point of the right hand needle.  Draw a loop through the stitch then drop the original stitch off left hand needle.  Continue working in this way until all the stitches are on right hand needle.

Garter Stitch (gst) is produced by knitting every stitch on every row.  The same effect is achieved by purling every stitch on every row. It works with any number of stitches.

Stocking Stitch (stst) is achieved by knitting one row and purling the following.  The knit side is the right side. It works with any number of stitches.

Reverse Stocking Stitch (rev stst) is produced by purling one row and knitting the following row.  Purling is on the right side. It works with any number of stitches.

Single rib stitch is produced by knitting one stitch and purling one stitch alternatively along the row.  On subsequent rows repeat knit the stitches that were purled and purl the stitches that were knitted on the previous row.  This pattern is a repeat of two stitches.

Double Rib is produced by knitting two stitches and purling two stitches alternatively along the row.  On subsequent repeats, knit the two stitches that were purled and purl the two stitches that were knitted on previous row.  This pattern is a repeat of four stitches.

Moss Stitch (mst) by knitting one stitch and purling one stitch alternatively along one row. On subsequent repeats knit the stitches that were knitted and purl the stitches that were purled. This pattern is a repeat of two stitches.

Double Moss (dmst) is worked over four rows. The first row is worked by knitting one stitch and purling alternatively. On the second row knit the stitches that were purled and purl the stitches that were knitted on the first row. The third row is worked by purling one stitch and knitting one stitch alternatively. On the fourth row purl the stitches that were knitted and knit the stitches that were purled on 3rd row. This pattern is a repeat of 2 stitches.

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Knitting for Beginners – The basics

There are just a few basic techniques that are required for you to be able to competently knit and a few more to make spectacular items yourself that would be worthy of the catwalk. Here we look at a little of both.

Casting on

Take a ball of yarn and pull up the centre loop.  Make the end of the yarn into a ring taking the short end across the front and to the back of the ring.  Insert your needle through the ring and under the short end and draw through a loop.  Pull up the ends, then shorten the end only to tighten up the slipknot.  With a needle holding the slipknot in your left hand and yarn at back, insert the point of the right hand needle into the slipknot.  Take the yarn under and over the point of the right hand needle and draw the loop through, without dropping the slipknot off the left needle.  Place this loop on the left needle this is how you make a stitch.  Insert the point of the right hand needle between the last two stitches and take the yarn under and over the point of the right hand needle.  Draw this through and place the loop on the left hand needle.  Continue working in this way by working between the last two stitches until the required number of stitches have been cast on.

How to knit stitch

Hold your needle with cast-on stitches in your left hand beginning about 8cm away from the stitches.  Take the yarn around the little finger of your right hand, under the next two fingers and over top of your index finger.  With the yarn at the back, insert the point of the right hand needle in front of the first stitch from left to right in left hand needle.  With your right index finger bring the yarn under and over the top of point of the right hand needle.  Draw a loop through the stitch then drop the original stitch off the left hand needle.  Continue working in this way until all the stitches are on your right hand needle.

How to purl stitch

Hold the needle with cast on stitches in your left hand beginning about 8cm away from cast on stitches.  Take the yarn around the little finger of your right hand, under the next two fingers and over top of your index finger.  With the yarn at the front insert the point of the right hand needle in front of the first stitch.  With your right index finger bring the yarn over and under the top of point of the right hand needle.  Draw a loop through the stitch then drop the original stitch off left hand needle.  Continue working in this way until all the stitches are on right hand needle.

Increasing and Decreasing

Increase one stitch knitwise

Knit into the front of the stitch to be increased into, but don’t drop off the stitch off the left needle.
Instead insert the point of the right needle into the back of same stitch from right to left and knit this stitch again.
Slip original stitch off left needle.

Increase one stitch purlwise

Purl into the front of the stitch to be increased into but don’t drop the stitch off the left needle.
Instead insert the point of the right needle into the back of the same stitch from left to right and purl this stitch again.
Slip the original stitch off the needle.

Decreasing in knitting

Knit two together

Insert the point of the right hand needle into the front of the second stitch.
Then again in front of the first stitch on the left needle and knit them together.
Drop original stitches off the left needle.

Purl two together

Insert the point of the right hand needle in front of the stitch
Then again into the second stitch on left needle and purl them together.
Drop both original stitches off the left hand needle.

Casting Off

Knit the first two stitches.
Using the point of the left needle, lift the first stitch on the right hand needle over the second stitch.
Knit the next stitch, using the point of the left needle, lift the first stitch on the right hand needle over the second stitch.
Continue in this way until all the stitches are cast off.

Making up

Joining side seams (with mattress stitch)
Lay the pieces to be joined flat and edge-to-edge the right side up.
Thread the blunt point of the needle with a length of yarn – you should use the same yarn as the one used for knitting.
Insert the needle between the edge stitch and the next stitch on the first piece and pick up the horizontal loop.
Insert the needle between the edge stitch and the next stitch on the second piece and pick up the first horizontal loop.
Return to the first piece and pick up the next horizontal loop between the edge stitch and the next stitch.
Now pick up the corresponding loop in the next piece.
Continue in this way, picking up the horizontal loops alternatively from each piece.
After a few stitches have been worked, pull up the yarn to close the seam.
When the seam is completed, make sure it’s of the same tension as the rest of the fabric.
Secure the ends at each end of the seam.

Joining shoulder seams (with mattress stitch)
Take the needle under first stitch, just below the cast off edge on one side take the needle under the first stitch, just below the cast off edge on the second piece.
Return to the first piece and take the needle under the next stitch.
Take the needle under the corresponding stitch on the second piece.
After a few stitches have been worked pull up the yarn to close the seam.
When the seam is completed, make sure it’s of the same tension as the rest of the fabric.
Secure the ends at each end of the seam.

If you want something a little more complex then why not look at these stitches to jazz up your designs.

Garter Stitch (gst)
Stocking Stitch (stst)
Reverse Stocking Stitch (rev stst)
Single Rib
Double Rib
Moss Stitch (mst)
Double Moss (dmst)

If you are interested then have a look at this page on how to create unique knitted baby clothes